This is a guest contribution from Rakesh Kumar.
In an earlier post, Rakesh has explained what elastic thread is. He has also mentioned that the same elastic thread can be used as bobbin elastic, looper elastic and needle elastic threads. But when the elastic thread is called as bobbin elastic, looper elastic and needle elastic?
In an earlier post, Rakesh has explained what elastic thread is. He has also mentioned that the same elastic thread can be used as bobbin elastic, looper elastic and needle elastic threads. But when the elastic thread is called as bobbin elastic, looper elastic and needle elastic?
The differences between these threads are explained here.
Bobbin Elastic
When the elastic thread is used in the bobbin to sew garment components, it is known as bobbin elastic. Stitch formation is being done with normal thread in needle and elastic thread in bobbin. This is used to provide gather look in the garment.
This stitch is being done on lock stitch machine only. Elastic thread can be winded (coiled) in bobbin manually or through bobbin winder. This stitch is helpful to provide better strength to seam due to lock stitch features.
Looper Elastic
When the elastic thread is fed via looper to sew garment components are known as looper elastic. Stitch formation is being done with normal thread in needle while elastic in looper. It gives gather look to the garment. This stitch can be done on multi thread chain stitch machine only. Looper is well designed to pass elastic with minimum tension.
Needle Elastic
In case of needle elastic, stitch formation is being done with elastic thread in needle only while we can feed up to 3 threads through spreader. Looper forms the chain without thread through electrical movement (a magnetic movement of looper to make loop at inner side of ply). This can be done on multi thread chain stitch only. We need to change gather pressor foot and DVK 25 needle to give a good result. Notable we use blind looper in this stitch. This is design known as smocking.
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| Sample for needle elastic |
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| Blind looper |
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| Eye looper |
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| Spreader |
A comparative study of usage of elastic thread in 3 different form and equipment requirement are shown in the following table.
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Base of comparison
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Bobbin Elastic
|
Looper Elastic
|
Needle Elastic
|
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Needle Type
|
UO113GS
DV57(Low Cost)
|
UO113GS (Both Side thread),
DV 57
|
DVK25,
DV 57(Low Cost)
|
|
Thread
|
Needle Thread,
looper/bobbin thread while Elastic through Spreader |
Needle thread and looper
elastic |
Needle elastic only
|
|
Sewing machine
|
Normal, multi thread chain
stitch m/c |
Normal, multi thread chain
stitch m/c |
Design machine multi thread
chain stitch |
|
Pressor foot
|
Plain/Gather Foot
|
Plain/Gather Foot
|
Gather Foot
|
|
RPM
|
2850
|
2850
|
1420
|
|
Looper
|
Through Spreader and Eye
Looper |
Eye Looper
|
Blind Looper
|
|
Gauge Set
|
Minimum 3/16”
|
Minimum 3/16”
|
Minimum 3/16”
|
|
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