A lot of new weavers find it tricky to read the weaving drafts. These drafts have been transferring the information about the weave pattern, type of loom, threading, tie-up plan, lifting plan etc from one generation to the other. Broadly, there are two ways in which weaving patterns are drafted on paper-
- Tie-up Format
- Lift up plan.
What is the difference?
The dobby and table loom weavers do have an advantage here because every tie-up draft can be rewritten as a lift plan draft, but not the other way around!

Representation of the tie-up format
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| Figure-1: Representation of Tie-up format |
- Horizontal Matrix: Represents threading of the loom. It tells you how you need to thread your warp for a specific pattern. The number of rows denote number of shafts or harness. The threading is usually read from right to left.
- Vertical Matrix: In case of a floor loom, treadling is written vertically and each column corresponds to one treadle. The treadles are numbered from left to right. This matrix shows the sequence in which treadles are to be pressed to get the desired pattern.
- Junction Matrix: This junction at the top right corner shows how the harness (on which threading is done) and the treadles are linked via lams.
- Draw Down Area: A schematic representation of the cloth itself.
All the information needed to create the drawdown yourself, or to weave the structure straight away, is contained in the three components- threading, treadling and tie-up matrix.
Representation of the lifting plan format
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| Figure-2: Lifting plan format. |
The diagram above shows the very same draft as seen for the tie-up format., however, it has now been converted to a lift plan format. Note the differences- the shafts (harness) and the columns of the lift plan are connected by right-angled arrows.
Related Post:
- Warp and weft meaning in woven fabric.
- How to Read a Tie-up Plan? (onlineclothingstudy.com)
- Lifting Plan in Weaving a Fabric (onlineclothingstudy.com)
References
- Hand Weaver’s Pattern Directory by Anne Dixon
- Woven Textiles: A Designer’s Guide by Sharon Kearley
- Lift plans- An article by Cally Booker http://weavingspace.co.uk/
About the Author:
Aayushi Kumar, an NIFT, Kolkata graduate, and Co-founder of Ednam Solutions Pvt Ltd is working in the field of female healthcare and hygiene, making smart garment.
Her interests include sustainable fashion, functional garments and luxury brand management.


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