Operation Breakdown and Machines Types Used for Making a Cargo Pant

I made this operation breakdown in my college days as one class assignment. I visited one garment export house (factory) to study garment for this assignment. That time factory was making Cargo Pants (in Khaki fabric). It was a nice product.

When I started making an operation breakdown, first I was overwhelmed by looking at a number of operations of the cargo pant. In a cargo pant, I can only see double-needle stitching with thicker threads. Don’t know where to start and how to breakdown operations. Then I follow the process, the way line was making that cargo pant. Finally, I made it and corrected later stage.

I did time study for most of the operations and also did motion study using SPD code and TMU values (Sewing Process Data). Here I am only sharing operation breakdown and machine types used for operations. I don’t have the actual image of the cargo pant that I had studied. Following image is just for an indication. Construction and styling of the actual cargo pant were different than this one.


The cargo pant that you have maybe different in styling and construction. By reading operation name here you can relate with your product and refer this for making your operation breakdown and modify where needed following your sample.

Oprn. Code Operation
Description
Machine Type
Back Panel:
A01 Attach left
piece and middle piece of the back panel
SNLS
A02 Attach
3rd piece to the
previous one
SNLS
A03 O/L
the raw edges
4
thread O/L
A04 Topstitch
on the stitch line
DNLS
A05 Design
stitch on back yokes
SNLS
A06 Sew
yoke with Back panel
SNLS
A07 O/L
of yoke and back seam
4
thread O/L
A08 Top
stitch at yoke
DNLS
A09 Strip
attach inside back panel at pocket opening
SNLS
A10 Back
pocket attachment
SNLS
Front
Panel
B01 Sew
front parts
SNLS
B02 O/L
the raw edges
4
thread O/L
B03 Topstitch
on the stitch line
DNLS
B04 Sew
top pocket (side pocket) ply to pocket mouth (inside out)
SNLS
B05 Fold
out and Top stitch to pocket mouth  
SNLS
B06 Stitch
side pocket all three sides
SNLS
B07 O/L
front crotch area (J shaped)
4
O/L
B08 Zipper
Fly attach to left panel
SNLS
B09 Zipper
attach to Zipper fly
SNLS,
single presser foot
B10 J-Stitch
on the top of left panel at zipper area
SNLS,
single presser foot
B11 Right
Zipper fly attached to zipper
SNLS
B12 Right
fly attached to right panel
SNLS
Side
Pocket:
C01 Attach
rectangular patch on middle ply
SNLS
C02 Place
two pocket facing on the both side of it and stitch at curved area
SNLS
with edge cutter
C03 Take
inner side out and top stitch at curved area
SNLS
 Side Patch Pocket:
D01 Hand
creasing and fold, stitch at bottom corners and fold out
SNLS
D02 Pressing
the folded edges
Iron
D03 Top
stitch at upper folded edges all three sides
DNLS
D04 Sew
folded portion at pocket mouth
SNLS
D05 Zipper
bottom fly attach pocket mouth 
SNLS
D06 Zipper
stitch with bottom fly
SNLS
D07 Sew
upper fly with zipper
SNLS
D08 Sew
small pocket on big one
SNLS
D09 Attach
flap
SNLS
Small
patch pocket
E01 Hand
creasing and fold, stitch at bottom corners and fold out
SNLS
E02 Hemming pocket
opening and attach button loop
SNLS
E03 Sew
folded portion at pocket mouth (outer fold)
SNLS
E04 Top
stitch at upper folded edges all three sides
DNLS,
Compensating P/F
Small patch
pocket Flap:
F01 Fusible
interlining
Fusing
m/c
F02 Side
fold first then centre fold and top stitch
DNLS,
Compensating P/F
Waist
Band preparation:
G01 Fusing
interlining all three parts ( Inner & Outer both)
Fusing
m/c
G02 Folding
and Pressing (outer) and marking using template
Iron
and template
G03 Stitch
front parts to back part( both inner & outer)
SNLS
G04 Stitch
inner and outer waist band (F to F)   
keeping a small patch
SNLS
with edge-cutter
G05 Pressing
waist band at the stitch line
Iron
G06 Attach
size label to brand label 
SNLS
G07 Attach
brand label to inner waist band
Automated
SNLS
G08 Stitch
ends of  band
SNLS
Back
pocket:
H01 Serge
pocket piece opening
3
thread O/L
H02 Serge
the strip
3
thread O/L
H03 Stitching
of pocket opening
SNLS
H04 Folding
pocket mouth and stitch at sides of opening
DNLS
H05 Press
three edges of pocket
Hand
iron
Belt
loop:
I01 Run
stitch
SNLS
I02 Pressing Hand
iron
I03 Closing
of one end of belt loop
SNLS
I04 Pressing Hand
iron
I05 Top
stitch on centre
DNLS,
Compensating p/f
I06 Cutting
according to loop length
Hand
scissors
Zipper
flap:
J01 Serge
left zipper fly
3
thread O/L
J02 Fold
and run stitch on right zipper fly
SNLS
J03 Over
lock stitch right zipper fly
3
thread O/L
Assembly 
K01 Side
seam(Front and back attach)
SNLS
K02 Over
lock side seam
4
thread O/L
K03 Patch
pocket attach
SNLS
K04 Inseam SNLS
K05 O/L  the edges (inseam) 4
thread O/L
K06 Topstitch
on inseam
DNLS
K07 Attach
left and right panel at seat and crotch area
SNLS
K08 Over
lock stitch
4
thread O/L
K09 Counter
stitch
SNLS
K10 Attach
lower part of belt loop
SNLS
K11 Attach
waist band with wash care label
SNLS
K12 Top
stitch on waist band
DNLS,
Compensating p/f
K13 Second stitch
on at lower side of belt loop
SNLS
K14 Marking
and Design stitch on belt loop and top end joining.
SNLS
K15 Bottom hemming SNLS
K16 Stitching
of zipper flaps at lower ends.
SNLS
K17 Second
Brand label attach
Computerized
L/s m/c
K18 Bar
tack at loops, on J-stitch
Bar
tacking m/c, Raised bed


Machine name abbreviation:
  • SNLS – Single Needle Lock Stitch
  • DNLS – Double Needle Lock Stitch
  • O/L – Over lock Machine
  • M/c – Machine
  • L/S – Lock Stitch 
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Prasanta Sarkar

Prasanta Sarkar is a textile engineer and a postgraduate in fashion technology from NIFT, New Delhi, India. He loves writing how-to guide articles in the fashion industry niche. He has visited garment factories in many countries and implemented process improvement projects in numerous garment units in different continents including Asia, Europe, and South Africa.

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